My Sweet Dumpling |
Recipe by Robin
A few years back I prepared some sweet dumpling squash, and
they came out terrible. What did I know? They looked so cute in the market, and
I thought “why not prepare them like butternut?”
But, whereas butternut is solid and substantial in flavor and texture and
plenty thick, sweet dumplings are subtle and delicate. And there’s just a thin
layer of squash once the sweet dumpling’s seeds are removed. So it’s easy to
overcook if baked upside down in a water bath (a method that works beautifully
for butternut).
Plus, the water leaches out some of its subtle flavor. So I came upon the idea
of turning the squash right-side-up in the water bath. And I used my Mom’s idea
for acorn squash: fill the cavity with sweet and salty stuff.
Irresistibly Cute |
If you’re debating whether to make this recipe or Maple
Glazed Delicata Squash, consider these points. The delicata can be cut into
elegant-looking rings, but requires more finesse to glaze. Delicata rings need
to be monitored so that the glaze that overflows onto the baking sheet between
the squash doesn’t burn. But they make an impressive presentation and are easy
to eat, so are great for company or potlucks. Maple glazed sweet dumplings are
less demanding to prepare. They require basting for optimal results, but
forgetting to baste won’t result in burning. They’re suited to more casual
dining situations, because it’s easiest to eat them by scooping out the insides
with a spoon. To do this you might need to hold the squash with your other hand
(or a fork, if you insist). You could cut the whole thing up with a knife and
scrape each piece off the skin, but you’d have to drain the sweet liquid onto
your plate rather than scooping it up with every bite.
Closeup of Basting Process |
Second, instead of completely scraping out each half, scrape
them in two stages. First, use a spoon to scrape out all of the seeds and as
much of the icky-goopy-stringy stuff as you can easily on all the squash
halves. Then go back and fine-tune, scraping out the rest of the fibers so the
inside is smooth. This confines the ick-factor to the first scraping, and seems
helpful in not getting the goopy stuff all over.
I’ve used just a bit of cinnamon and a hint of nutmeg so as
not to overpower the subtle squash flavor, but you could double the amount if
you’d like to taste more spice. You could also try this cooking method on acorn
squash.
serves about 4 - 6
2 sweet dumpling squash, ~3.5 lbs. total
2 tbsp. unsalted butter
1 tbsp. brown sugar
½ tsp. salt
½ cup
maple syrup
1/8 tsp. cinnamon
2 pinches nutmeg
Wash squash. Cut each squash in half from top to bottom, by
lining up a cleaver between two grooves to make two equal pieces. Tap the
cleaver gently with a rubber mallet until the squash splits. You can use a
large, sharp knife instead.
Scoop out seeds and fibers from inside of squash halves.
Scrape inner surface with spoon until smooth and free of all dark orange
fibers.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
Make glaze: Melt butter in small saucepan. Stir in brown
sugar and salt. Add maple syrup. Heat over medium high, stirring constantly,
until mixture boils. Boil, stirring constantly, for about 4 minutes, until
slightly thickened.
Put squash halves into baking dish. Spoon about 1½
tablespoons of glaze into the cavity of each half. Reserve remaining glaze to
baste squash. Fill baking dish about halfway (1 inch or less) with water.
Put squash into preheated oven on middle rack. Bake squash
for total of about 1 hour, but set timer to baste squash every 10 minutes (5
times total). The squash will resist the glaze at first, but each time you
baste the glaze will build up a little more.
To baste: Use silicon
basting brush to brush remaining glaze onto top cut edges of squash as well
as into cavity.
To test squash for doneness, poke a fork into the side of
the squash cavity. Try not to poke all the way through the skin or the glaze
will leak out. Squash is done when it’s soft, about 50 – 60 minutes.
Remove baking pan from oven and immediately remove squash
from water onto serving plate with hefty
slotted spoon, being careful not to spill glaze out of cavities. Let squash
cool about 5 minutes.
Platter o' Squash |
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